Following Illegal Hunters That Illegally Capture the Nation's Rare Songbirds.
The conservationist's eyes scan across miles of tall grassland, searching for any movement in the pre-dawn darkness.
He speaks in less than a whisper as the team seeks a concealed position in the fields. In the distance, the sprawling city of Beijing has yet to wake. During the vigil, the only sound is the sound of breathing.
Suddenly, as the sky begins to brighten before dawn, we hear footsteps. The poachers are here.
Trapped
In the skies above us, countless migratory birds, many so small that they could rest in the palm of your hand, are migrating south for winter.
They have benefited from the long summer days in northern regions, consuming bugs and berries. As the year comes to a close and chilling gusts bring the early cold of winter, they journey to southern locales to find food and shelter.
There are more than 1,500 bird species, representing roughly 13% of the global population – more than 800 of those are migratory birds. Several of the major paths they follow intersect in China.
The area of meadow in question, on the fringes of the Chinese capital, is an oasis for small birds – any further and the city skies offer little opportunity to rest among clusters of concrete.
It is also an oasis for the poachers and their "barely visible nets", so fine you can almost miss them.
The trap we stumbled upon was strung across a large section of the field and held up with wooden sticks. At its center, a small finch was struggling frantically to free his legs, but the more it moved, the more its feet got ensnared.
It was a protected songbird, a species under protection in China, and an important "indicator species" – that means if its numbers are thriving, so is its ecosystem.
Hunting the Hunters
Silva, who is in his 30s, does this work for free using his own savings. He has forgone many nights of sleep to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last 10 years convincing the police in Beijing to take this crime seriously.
"Initially, authorities were indifferent," he remarks.
So he enlisted helpers who were concerned and formed a group called the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He held community gatherings and brought in the heads of the relevant authorities. These small and persistent acts of advocacy appear to have worked. The police found that catching poachers also helped in identifying other kinds of criminal activity.
"We found our goals were somewhat shared," Silva says, adding the caveat that implementation remains inconsistent.
Silva's love of birds started in childhood. He was raised in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He recalls roaming through the grasslands on the city's edges where he discovered birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
Industrialization brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This expansion meant grasslands were seen as areas for development, not protected zones to preserve.
This shift shocked him. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the ecosystems they sustained.
"I made the choice back then to work in conservation and I chose this direction," he says.
It has not been an easy life. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers discovered he was being investigated by Silva and fought back.
"He gathered several of his associates who surrounded me and assaulted me," Silva recalls. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not brought to justice.
He has also seen the departure of his team of helpers over the years. This work demands stealth and sleepless nights. Silva says few people are willing to take on the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"My life is devoted to this," he says. "I treat it as a mission because if you want to tackle this challenge, you must commit completely. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says fundraising covers some of the costs – more than 100,000 yuan a year – but funding has declined because of the slowing economy.
So he has found new ways to track the poachers.
He examines aerial photos to find the trails created by the poachers. He charts these against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The aerial views can even show netting setups which can capture hundreds of small birds at night.
"Certain prized species sell for a high price," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now quite wealthy."
Although there are environmental regulations in place, Silva reckons the fines to deter the activity do not outweigh the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Keeping a caged bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a mark of prestige. This originates from the Qing dynasty. Wealthy individuals would build elaborate bamboo cages for their birds.
It's a tradition that persists mainly among retired men in their later years. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are committing a wildlife crime, or understand that so many more birds had to die in a trap for them to purchase a pet.
"These individuals didn't even have enough to eat growing up. Now with some disposable income, they have adopted the habit and custom of caging birds," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was little opportunity to educate people about ecology. Once people's attitudes are formed, they're extremely difficult to change."
Apprehended
Along a riverside path in Beijing, a trader has several small cages with chirping songbirds.
A separate individual is positioned near a nearby market holding a bird cage covered by a black veil. He tells passers-by quietly that his songbird is valuable, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an traditional side of the city where informal vendors have created their own market.
The area by the river stretches for several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were people looking at everything from old trinkets to false teeth.
We were told that wild songbirds could be bought in a small park. It was easy to find.
Music was blasting from a speaker in a shaded area where a group of elderly ladies were choreographing a fan dance. Close by several men, all over 50, had gathered with bird cages – some had multiple in their hands. Most were concealed by black fabric.
But today there would be no sales because the police had arrived. They were interviewing the bird owners and recording details. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his